Hoi An is a coastal town in central Vietnam and a World Heritage site. It’s also a haven for those seeking custom-made clothes, with tailors on (and in between) every corner. So we couldn’t resist giving it a try.
I started with a green satin dress and dress pants, added two shirts, and finally ordered a forest green winter coat, all for $125. Fred got a three-piece suit, a white dress shirt, and two jackets. We dutifully got measured by a friendly but pushy assistant who kept asking, “You happy?” and we came back the next day to try on our creations.
Unfortunately, we weren’t prepared for all the alterations that would be necessary, from a tailor that came highly recommended (we don’t recommend them). I wanted a low-backed dress with wide-set straps, and they had trouble getting the top to fit snugly – so much trouble that I had to be motorbiked to the workshop so I could try on the dress after three, four, five alterations. The workshop was a small three-room building strewn with fabric scraps and Vietnamese men playing cards on the floor. The aforementioned talkative assistant herded me into the bedroom and quickly pulled clothes on and off me, examining the fit. (Finally, they got it right.)
Fred wasn’t so lucky – apparently (though I can’t tell), his suit still has flaws. Also, the dress shirt isn’t high quality material, and the casual jacket isn’t casual. Plus, he discovered that they were cheating us (and everyone else) with an exchange rate of 22,000 dong for every USD, when it should have been 21,000.
Here are some photos:
Kira and Fred,
Great choice of colors and styles. You will remember these styles when you look back.
It reminds me of having clothes made in Spain by my modesta. It was lovely to have a personal seamstress.
Now I need your address for Christmas cheer! Please let us know so we can send holiday messages. xoxo Aunt Jeann and Uncle Steve.
You can send it home! We’re moving around too much here. Merry Christmas!
$125?! That’s awesome!
for 125 it looks great!
Glad to have stumbled across your blog and read about your Asian adventures. I had no idea about custom make clothes in Vietnam and I love what you picked out. I work with Vietnam Vet everyday so I’m pretty curious about the country, people and life in the aftermath of Vietnam War. -Arena
Thanks, Arena. Vietnam (at least the major cities I’ve been in) seems less developed than China, and caters a lot to tourists, with Western restaurants, lots of hotels, etc. Everyone has been pretty friendly.